Njalo ngomzuzwana iloli eligcwele izingubo liya endaweni yokulahla imfucumfucu. Abathengi abakubonayo lokhu abafuni ukuthenga imikhiqizo engavumelani nemvelo. Besindisa iplanethi nebhizinisi labo, abakhiqizi bezingubo baqala ukuthunga izinto zikabhanana nolwelwe
Embonini elingana netheminali yesikhumulo sezindiza, abasiki be-laser badabula amashidi amade kakotini, banqamule okungaba imikhono yamajakhethi ka-Zara. Kuze kube unyaka owandulela owedlule, izinsalela ezaziwela kubhasikidi bensimbi zazisetshenziswa njengokugcwalisa ifenisha egqunywe upholstered noma zithunyelwe ngqo endaweni yokulahla imfucumfucu yedolobha lase-Arteijo enyakatho yeSpain. Manje asetshenzwa ngamakhemikhali abe yi-cellulose, ahlanganiswe ne-wood fiber, futhi adalwe into ebizwa ngokuthi i-refibra, esetshenziselwa ukwenza izingubo ezingaphezu kweshumi nambili: Izikibha, amabhulukwe, iziqongo.
Lesi isinyathelo se-Inditex, inkampani engumnikazi we-Zara kanye nezinye izinhlobo eziyisikhombisa. Zonke zimelela ingxenye yemboni yezemfashini eyaziwa ngezingubo ezishibhile ezigcwala amakhabethe wabathengi ekuqaleni kwesizini ngayinye futhi ngemva kwezinyanga ezimbalwa baye kubhasikidi wemfucuza noma emashalofini akude kakhulu ekhabethe lezingubo.
- Ngaphezu kwabo, i-Gap ithembisa ukusebenzisa kuphela izisebenzi ezivela emapulazini emvelo noma ezimbonini ezingalimazi imvelo ngo-2021;
- Inkampani yaseJapane i-Fast Retailing, ephethe i-Uniqlo, izama ukucubungula nge-laser ukunciphisa ukusetshenziswa kwamanzi namakhemikhali kuma-jeans acindezelekile;
- Umdondoshiya waseSweden u-Hennes & Mauritz utshala izimali ezisungulweni ezigxile ekuthuthukisweni kobuchwepheshe bokugaywa kabusha kwemfucuza kanye nokukhiqizwa kwezinto ngezinto ezingezona ezendabuko, njenge-mushroom mycelium.
“Enye yezinselelo ezinkulu iwukunikeza ngemfashini abantu abakhula njalo ube unakekela imvelo,” kusho isikhulu se-H&M uKarl-Johan Persson. "Sidinga nje ukushintshela kumodeli yokukhiqiza imfucuza eyiziro."
Imboni engu-$3 trillion isebenzisa inani elingenakucatshangwa likakotini, amanzi kanye nogesi ukukhiqiza izingcezu zezimpahla zokugqoka nezinsiza eziyizigidi eziyizinkulungwane eziyi-100 minyaka yonke, u-60% wazo, ngokusho kukaMcKinsey, ulahlwa ungakapheli unyaka. Ngaphansi kwe-1% yezinto ezikhiqizwayo zigaywa kabusha zaba izinto ezintsha, u-Rob Opsomer, isisebenzi senkampani yocwaningo yamaNgisi i-Ellen MacArthur Foundation, uyavuma. Uthi: “Cishe iloli eligcwele indwangu liya endaweni yokulahla imfucumfucu njalo ngomzuzwana.
Ngo-2016, i-Inditex yakhiqiza izingubo eziyizigidi ezingu-1,4. Lesi sivinini sokukhiqiza sisize inkampani ukuthi ikhulise inani layo lemakethe cishe ngokuphindwe kahlanu kule minyaka eyishumi edlule. Kodwa manje ukukhula kwemakethe kuye kwancipha: izinkulungwane zeminyaka, ezihlola umthelela "wemfashini esheshayo" emvelweni, zikhetha ukukhokhela okuhlangenwe nakho nemizwelo, kunokuba izinto. Izinzuzo ze-Inditex kanye ne-H&M zehlile kulokho okulindelwe umhlaziyi eminyakeni yamuva, futhi amasheya emakethe ezinkampani ehle cishe ngengxenye yesithathu ngo-2018. I-Industrial Research Institute. "Kodwa sonke sesivele sinezinto ezanele."
Umkhuba obheke ekusetshenzisweni ngendlela efanele ubeka imibandela yawo siqu: lezo zinkampani ezishintshela ekukhiqizeni okungenamfucuza ngesikhathi zingathola inzuzo yokuncintisana. Ukunciphisa inani lemfucuza, abathengisi bafake iziqukathi ezikhethekile ezitolo eziningi lapho amakhasimende engashiya khona izinto ezizothunyelwa ukuthi zigaywe kabusha.
Umxhumanisi wezitolo ze-Accenture uJill Standish ukholelwa ukuthi izinkampani ezenza izingubo ezisimeme zingaheha amakhasimende amaningi. "Isikhwama esenziwe ngamahlamvu amagilebhisi noma ingubo eyenziwe ngekhasi lewolintshi asisezona izinto nje, kunendaba ethokozisayo ngemuva kwazo," kusho yena.
I-H&M ihlose ukukhiqiza zonke izinto ngezinto ezigaywe kabusha nezisimeme ngo-2030 (manje isabelo sezinto ezinjalo singu-35%). Kusukela ngo-2015, inkampani ibilokhu ixhasa umncintiswano wabaqalayo ubuchwepheshe babo busiza ukunciphisa umthelela omubi wemboni yezemfashini emvelweni. Abaqhudelanayo baqhudelana ngesibonelelo sika-€1 million ($1,2 million). Omunye wabaphumelele ngonyaka odlule i-Smart Stitch, eyakha intambo encibilika kumazinga okushisa aphezulu. Lobu buchwepheshe buzosiza ukuthuthukisa ukugaywa kabusha kwezinto, lula inqubo yokukhipha izinkinobho noziphu ezingutsheni. I-Startup Crop-A-Porter ifunde ukuthi yenziwa kanjani intambo kusuka kudoti kusuka emasimini efilakisi, ubhanana namaphayinaphu. Omunye umncintiswano udale ubuchwepheshe bokuhlukanisa imicu yezinto ezihlukene lapho kucutshungulwa izindwangu ezixubile, kanti ezinye iziqalo zenza izingubo ngamakhowe nolwelwe.
Ngo-2017, i-Inditex yaqala ukuvuselela izingubo ezindala zibe izingcezu ezibizwa ngomlando. Umphumela wayo yonke imizamo yenkampani emkhakheni wokukhiqiza okunomthwalo wemfanelo (izinto ezenziwe ngekotini ephilayo, ukusetshenziswa kwe-ribbed nezinye izinto ze-eco-materials) kwaba umugqa wezingubo ze-Joyina Life. Ngo-2017, izinto ezingaphezu kuka-50% zaphuma ngaphansi kwalolu hlobo, kodwa ekuthengisweni okuphelele kwe-Inditex, izingubo ezinjalo azenzi ngaphezu kwe-10%. Ukwandisa ukukhiqizwa kwezindwangu ezisimeme, inkampani ixhasa ucwaningo eMassachusetts Institute of Technology kanye namanyuvesi amaningana aseSpain.
Ngo-2030, i-H&M ihlela ukwandisa ingxenye yezinto ezigaywe kabusha noma ezisimeme emikhiqizweni yayo iye ku-100% isuka ku-35% wamanje.
Obunye bobuchwepheshe abacwaningi abasebenza ngabo ukukhiqizwa kwezingubo ezivela emikhiqizweni yokucubungula izinkuni kusetshenziswa ukuphrinta kwe-3D. Abanye ososayensi bafunda ukuhlukanisa imicu kakotini ne-polyester lapho kulungiswa izindwangu ezixubile.
"Sizama ukuthola izinhlobo eziluhlaza zazo zonke izinto zokwakha," kusho u-German Garcia Ibáñez, owengamele ukugaywa kabusha kwa-Inditex. Ngokusho kwakhe, amajini enziwe ngezinto esezigaywe kabusha manje aqukethe ukotini osugaywe kabusha u-15% kuphela - imicu emidala iyaguga futhi idinga ukuxutshwa nemisha.
I-Inditex ne-H&M zithi izinkampani zikhokha izindleko ezengeziwe ezihambisana nokusebenzisa izindwangu ezigaywe kabusha nezitholiwe kabusha. Joyina izinto ze-Life zibiza cishe njengezinye izingubo ezitolo ze-Zara: Izikibha zithengiswa ngaphansi kuka-$10, kuyilapho amabhulukwe ngokuvamile angabizi ngaphezu kuka-$40. I-H&M iphinde ikhulume ngenhloso yayo yokugcina amanani aphansi ezingubo ezenziwe ngezinto ezisimeme, inkampani ilindele ukuthi ngokukhula kokukhiqizwa, izindleko zemikhiqizo enjalo zizokwehla. “Esikhundleni sokuphoqa amakhasimende ukuthi akhokhe izindleko, sivele sikubone njengotshalomali lwesikhathi eside,” kusho u-Anna Gedda, owengamele ukukhiqizwa okusimeme kwa-H&M. "Sikholelwa ukuthi imfashini eluhlaza ingathengeka kunoma yiliphi ikhasimende."