Okuqukethwe
Ama-tight we-Openwork, izingubo zokugqoka, izindwangu ezikhanyelayo, izicathulo ezipinki - konke lokhu kuyisici … imfashini yabesilisa kumasizini akamuva. Uthini lo mkhuba? Futhi yini abaklami abahamba phambili emhlabeni abafuna amadoda ayenze?
Ama-Tunics amaRoma asendulo namabhulukwe ama-harem abesifazane baseMpumalanga, ama-sarongs ama-Indian universal kanye ne-djellaba yase-Afrika, egqokwa amadoda nabesifazane ngesikhathi esifanayo - lezi nezinye izinhlobo zokugqoka zibonisa ukuthi emlandweni wezwe wefashini akukho uxhumano olucacile. phakathi kweziketi namabhulukwe anobulili obuthile. Konke kuncike endaweni ethile kanye nesikhathi sokwenza okuthile. Ngokwezindinganiso zesiko lethu laseYurophu emakhulwini eminyaka adlule, ukubonakala kwendoda egqoke isiketi esidlangalaleni kuwukucasula ngokuphelele noma uphawu lokungaqondi kwendabuko. Phakathi naleso sikhathi, ayanda amadoda anjalo. Kungani?
“Lo mkhuba awumusha ngokuphelele,” kusho isazi samasiko u-Olga Vainshtein. — Khumbula umklami ongumFulentshi uJean-Paul Gaultier's Une garde-robe pour deux collection eneziketi zamadoda - lokhu kwakungo-1985. Ngo-2003-2004, iMetropolitan Museum of Art isingathe umbukiso odumile othi "Bravehearts. Amadoda eziketi «(» Daredevils: amadoda eziketi «). Kodwa, yiqiniso, eminyakeni emibili edlule, inani lamaqoqo amadoda anemininingwane yezingubo zabesifazane liye landa ngokuphawulekayo, ngaphezu kwalokho, le mfashini isiqalile ukuhamba ngenkuthalo ekuphileni.
Osaziwayo baya ngokuya babonakala begqoke izingubo neziketi kukhaphethi obomvu noma imicimbi ebalulekile emphakathini. Phakathi kwabo kukhona uJaden Smith, 18, indodana kaWill Smith, abalingisi uJared Leto, Van Diesel, umrepha uKanye West. Futhi-ke, umlandeli odume kakhulu we-kilt, iziketi, ama-sundresses nezinye izinto zekhabethe labesifazane ngumklami wemfashini waseMelika, umdali womkhiqizo wakhe uMarc Jacobs, uMarc Jacobs.
U-Ekaterina Orel, isazi sokusebenza kwengqondo:
Ngokwengxenye mayelana nesifiso samadoda anamuhla sokuqonda kangcono abesifazane. Phela, izingxabano mayelana nendima yezenhlalakahle, amalungelo kanye namathuba abesifazane emphakathini akuyeki, ngokuphambene nalokho. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, ukuqeqeshwa "gqoka iziketi futhi ukhonze indoda yakho" kwaqala ukusebenza, futhi ngakolunye uhlangothi, igagasi elinamandla lezingxoxo zodlame lomndeni nocansi, intshisekelo yabesifazane emisebenzini yendabuko yabesilisa ... Futhi kimi kubonakala sengathi imfashini ngoba iziketi zabesilisa wuhlobo lokuqhubeka kwale ngxoxo. Kukhona inkulumo enhle ngesiNgisi — ukuma ezicathulweni zami (ngokwezwi nezwi “ukuma ezicathulweni zami”), okusho ukwamukela umbono, isimo, imibono yomunye umuntu. Abaqambi bemfashini baphoqa ngokoqobo amadoda ukuthi azame indima yowesifazane nazo zonke izici zayo, izinzuzo kanye nokulinganiselwa.
U-Olga Weinstein, isazi samasiko:
Ngibona lokhu kuthambekela njengengxenye yokuthambekela okuvamile okubhekiswe ekubhujisweni kwezivumelwano kanye nemibono yamasiko emfashini. Lolu chungechunge luhlanganisa imikhankaso yokubhikisha emelene ne-photoshop, ukubonakala emsamo wabesifazane abakhuluphele ngokweqile, abantu abakhubazekile, amamodeli amadala. Futhi ngomqondo omncane, lo mkhuba uchazwa ngomqondo othi «ukugoba ubulili», okusho ukunwetshwa, ukuthambisa kwemingcele eqinile yobulili. Namuhla, ukuhlangana kwezindima, ukwenziwa kwabesifazane njengabesifazane kanye nokukhululwa kwabesifazane kwenzeka emazingeni ahlukene. Abesifazane baba namandla futhi baphumelele. Ezweni labakhuluma isiNgisi, kunomqondo othi «ukunikezwa amandla kwabesifazane», okusho ukuqinisa izikhundla namathuba abesifazane, ukwandisa ukuzethemba kwabo. Futhi amadoda, ngokuphambene nalokho, abonisa ngokuqhubekayo ukuthamba nobufazi - khumbula uhlobo lwama-metrosexual olwavela ekuqaleni kwawo-2000, futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo izimiso ezintsha zokuzinakekela kwabesilisa, ukuzinakekela kwafika emfashini.
Isiketi - uphawu lobudoda?
Ngakolunye uhlangothi, inqubo yokwenziwa kwabantu besifazane ibe yinkinga enkulu namuhla. UPhillip Zimbardo, isazi sesayensi yezengqondo kwezenhlalo yasendulo, wanikela ngencwadi ehlukile ekulahlekeni kobuntu babo ngamadoda.1. "CNgabe abafana besimanje bayafeyila yini ezifundweni, ngokwenhlalo, nasocansini, kanti abesifazane abaneminyaka engaphansi kwengama-30 bayafeyila yini amadoda emfundweni nasemiholweni? - kugcizelela uPhilip Zimbardo. “Ukuzwana phakathi kwendoda nowesifazane kuya ngokuya kuphazamiseka. Ukuze kubuyiswe ibhalansi yobulili, kuyadingeka ukuthi ilungelo lokuphakamisa izindaba zokulingana linikezwe indoda.”
Kulokhu, ukuthuthukiswa kweziketi nezingubo zamadoda kuyisibonakaliso esihle, umzamo wokubuyisela ibhalansi. Ngempela abantu besifazane bagqoka amabhulukwe kusukela ekuqaleni kwekhulunyaka elidlule, pho kungani amadoda kusafanele ahlukanise izingubo zibe ezabesilisa nezabesifazane?
Kodwa imfashini yefashini inenye i-engeli. “Njenganoma isiphi isenzakalo ezweni langemva kwesimanje, iziketi zamadoda zinomyalezo okabili: ngezindlela eziningi zigcizelela ubudoda bomuntu ozigqokile,” kusho isazi sokusebenza kwengqondo u-Ekaterina Orel. — Phela, ukuhlotshaniswa kokuqala kwesiketi somuntu kuyi-kilt, izingubo zabaqwali bezintaba, abane-aura yesibindi nobudlova emasikweni aseNtshonalanga. Ngakho-ke, egqoke isiketi, indoda, ngakolunye uhlangothi, izama isithombe sowesifazane, futhi ngakolunye uhlangothi, imemezela amandla akhe nokuphakama kwayo, igcizelela ukuhlobana nomfanekiso wesilwane sasezintabeni esinjengempi.
“Amadoda agqoke iziketi abukeka engamadoda,” kuqinisekisa u-Olga Weinstein. - Ake sikhumbule okungenani amasosha asendulo aseRoma ngezingubo ezimfushane. Noma, isibonelo, isiketi esimnyama sesikhumba, amabhuzu amadoda amaholoholo, izinhlanga ebusweni nezingalo zamadoda ezinemisipha — le nhlanganisela idala isithombe esinonya.
Ngandlela thize, ukuxegiswa kwezinkolelo-ze zamasiko kanye nemingcele yobulili, ukuhlobana kwazo kusobala. Lokhu kwenziwa lula inqubo yokuhwebelana kwembulunga yonke. U-Olga Weinstein ukhumbuza u-Olga Weinstein ukuthi: “Amabhulukwe aqhakaza, okuyizingubo ezivamile zasempumalanga, aseba imfashini emhlabeni wonke, ama-sarong awagqokwa abantu baseNingizimu-mpumalanga ye-Asia kuphela, kodwa nabaseYurophu, uDavid Beckham, uyabathanda. - Okusho ukuthi, singakhuluma ngokusondelana kweMpumalanga neNtshonalanga kanye nokwandiswa kokubolekwa kwamasiko. Ukuvela kwamamodeli ashintsha ubulili - abesilisa nabesifazane abashintsha ubulili babo ngendlela yokuhlinzwa - kufakazela ukuxegiswa kwemibono.
1 F. Zimbardo, N. Colombe «Indoda Ehlukanisayo: Imidlalo, I-Porn kanye Nokulahlekelwa Kobunikazi» (incwadi ishicilelwe ngo-August 2016 ngu-Alpina Publisher).