I-Retinol yesikhumba sobuso

Wonke umuntu uyazi mayelana nezinzuzo ze-vitamin A, mhlawumbe kusukela ebuntwaneni. Cishe njalo kufakwe ekwakhiweni kwama-multivitamin, kuthengiswa ngokwehlukana futhi kuhlanganiswe ne-vitamin E, abakhiqizi babhala ngakho emaphaketheni emikhiqizo yabo.

Kodwa ekusetshenzisweni kwangaphandle, enye yezinhlobo zayo isetshenziswa, okungukuthi, i-Retinol noma i-retinoic acid (isotretinoin). Lesi sakamuva sithathwa njengomuthi, ngakho-ke asisetshenziswa ezimonyoni. Kodwa i-Retinol - ngisho kakhulu.

Kungani eye wazuza udumo olungaka? Ingasetshenziswa nini, futhi ingabe iyingozi? I-Retinol isebenza kanjani esikhumbeni? Uchwepheshe we-cosmetologist uzosisiza ukuthi siphendule le mibuzo neminye.

Yini i-Retinol

I-Retinol iyona evame kakhulu futhi, ngesikhathi esifanayo, uhlobo olungasebenzi lwe-vitamin A. Eqinisweni, iwuhlobo "lomkhiqizo ophelile" womzimba. Uma isemangqamuzaneni ahlosiwe, i-Retinol iguqulwa ibe i-retinal, eguqulwa ibe i-retinoic acid.

Kungase kubonakale sengathi kungenzeka ukufaka i-retinoic acid ngokuqondile kuma-serums nama-creams - kodwa ezweni lethu akuvunyelwe ukuyisebenzisa njengengxenye yezimonyo, kuphela emithini. Umphumela ongaqageleki kakhulu, ungaba yingozi¹.

I-Vitamin A kanye nezinto ezihlobene nazo zibizwa ngokuthi ama-retinoids - leli gama lingatholakala futhi lapho kukhethwa imikhiqizo yobuhle.

Amaqiniso athakazelisayo nge-Retinol

I-Vitamin A iye yacwaningwa ngososayensi, njengoba besho, phezulu naphansi. Kodwa ku-cosmetology, i-Retinol yaqala ukusetshenziswa kabanzi eminyakeni embalwa edlule. Nakhu okudingeka ukwazi ngale nto eyisimangaliso ukuze kube lula ukuyiqonda ngokuqhubekayo:

Isebenza kanjani i-Retinol esikhumbeni

I-Vitamin A ihileleke ekuphenduleni okuhlukahlukene okuhlotshaniswa nokugcina isimo esivamile sesikhumba kanye nolwelwesi lwamafinyila: ukuhlanganiswa kwamahomoni nezimfihlo, izingxenye zesikhala se-intercellular, ukuvuselelwa kwendawo yamaseli, ukwanda kwama-glycosaminoglycans abhekele ukunwebeka kwesikhumba, nokunye.

I-substance ibalulekile ekubunjweni kwe-epithelium - lesi yizicubu ezihlanganisa yonke imigodi emzimbeni futhi zenze isikhumba. I-Retinol nayo iyadingeka ukuze kugcinwe ukwakheka nomswakama wamaseli. Ngokushoda kwevithamini, i-dermis ilahlekelwa ukunwebeka kwayo, iba phaphathekile, ibe bushelelezi, bese kuba sengozini yokuba nezinduna kanye nezifo ze-pustular.

Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-Retinol isebenza esikhumbeni sobuso kusuka ngaphakathi. I-Vitamin A ihileleke ekuhlanganiseni kwe-progesterone, ivimbela inqubo yokuguga, futhi yaziwa nangezindawo zayo zokulwa ne-antioxidant.

Izinzuzo ze-Retinol esikhumbeni

I-Vitamin A ikhona njalo emikhiqizweni eminingi yezimonyo. Lawa ama-anti-age and sunscreens, ama-serum nama-peels, amalungiselelo okwelapha izinduna nama-pimples, ngisho nezindebe ezicwebezelayo. I-Retinol yesikhumba sobuso iyinto esebenzayo ngempela.

Kuyini ukusetshenziswa kwayo:

• ubamba iqhaza ekuhlanganiseni nasekuvuseleleni amaseli esikhumba,
• ivuselela ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen futhi isiza ukunciphisa imibimbi²,
• kunomthelela ekulondolozeni umswakama esikhumbeni, kuthambisa,
• normalizes ukukhiqizwa kwe-sebum (sebum),
• ilawula ukugqama kwesikhumba,
• isiza ekwelapheni izinqubo zokuvuvukala (kuhlanganise nezinduna), inomphumela wokuphulukisa³.

Ukusetshenziswa kwe-Retinol ebusweni

I-Vitamin A ingenye yezakhi ezibaluleke kakhulu emzimbeni womuntu. Ngakho-ke, akumangazi ukuthi i-Retinol ku-cosmetology isetshenziselwa izinhlobo ezahlukene zesikhumba futhi, ngokufanele, ikuvumela ukuthi uxazulule izinkinga ezihlukahlukene ngendlela ye-vector.

Okwesikhumba esinamafutha nenkinga

Endabeni yokusebenza ngokweqile kwezindlala ze-sebaceous, umuntu ubhekene nenqwaba yezimonyo ezingezinhle: isikhumba siyacwebezela, ama-pores akhulisiwe, ama-comedones (amachashazi amnyama) avela, ukuvuvukala kuvame ukuvela ngenxa yokuphindaphinda kwe-microflora.

Ukuze kusizwe abantu abanesikhumba esinamafutha nesinezinkinga, kuye kwasungulwa imithi eminingi ehlukahlukene. Ezinye zazo zihlanganisa i-Retinol - ngani?

Ukusetshenziswa kwama-retinoids kusiza ukususa amapulaki ezimbotsheni zesikhumba, kuvimbela ukubonakala kwama-comedones amasha, kunciphisa inani lamagciwane ayingozi, futhi kunomphumela wokulwa nokuvuvukala⁴. Ama-lotions nama-serum asebenza kahle kakhulu, kuyilapho ama-gel nama-creams engasebenzi kahle kancane.

Ngesikhumba esomile

Kubukeka sengathi umkhiqizo osetshenziswa ekomisweni kwezimonyo ungahlotshaniswa kanjani nohlobo lwesikhumba esomile. Kodwa khumbula - uvithamini A unezinketho eziningi zokusebenzisa ngempumelelo.

Ngokweminye imibiko, kwandisa amandla esikhumba okugcina umswakama⁵. Kodwa ngesikhathi esifanayo, ezinye izici kufanele zicatshangelwe. Ngakho-ke, ku-cosmetics ene-Retinol yesikhumba esomile, njengomthetho, izithako ezimanzi ziyasetshenziswa. Isibonelo, i-hyaluronic acid noma i-glycerin.

Ngesikhumba esibucayi

Ngalolu hlobo lwesikhumba ngokujwayelekile, udinga ukuhlala uqaphile: noma yisiphi isithako esisha noma ukusetshenziswa ngokweqile kwento kungabangela ukusabela okungafuneki, ukulunywa noma ukuvuvukala.

I-Retinol ivame ukusetshenziswa ekulungiseleleni izimonyo ukuhlanza nokuvuselela isikhumba, futhi ngokusetshenziswa isikhathi eside, kungabangela ukusabela kwendawo ngendlela yokucasuka. Futhi lokhu akudingekile nhlobo esikhumbeni esivele sibucayi!

Yeka u-vitamin A? Akudingekile. Izithasiselo ziyasiza futhi. Ngokwesibonelo, i-niacinamide, eyaziwa ngemiphumela yayo eqeda ukuvuvukala, ivame ukungezwa kuma-emulsions e-Retinol nama-serum.

Futhi nokho: kungcono ukuhlola i-hypersensitivity endaweni encane yesikhumba ngaphambi kokusebenzisa ikhambi elisha (ngokufanelekile, endaweni engaphakathi yengalo).

Isikhumba esiguga

Lapha, imisebenzi eminingana ebalulekile kavithamini A izosiza ngesikhathi esisodwa. Inciphisa i-keratinization (i-coarseness) ye-epithelium, isiza ukuvuselela i-epidermis (yenza buthaka izibopho phakathi kwezikali zezimpondo futhi isheshise ukuphuma kwayo), ikhanyise ithoni yesikhumba, futhi ikhulise ukuqina kwayo⁵.

I-Retinol yesikhumba sobuso ingasiza ngezibonakaliso zokuqala zokuguga: i-keratosis (isikhumba esiqinile endaweni), imibimbi yokuqala, i-sagging, i-pigmentation.

Kusukela imibimbi

I-Retinol kwizimonyo ibambezela ukusabela kwe-enzyme "ehlobene neminyaka" futhi ikhuphule ukuhlanganiswa kwe-pro-collagen fibers². Ngenxa yalezi zindlela ezimbili, uvithamini A usiza ukulwa nemibimbi. Futhi, khumbula ukuthi i-Retinol isiza isikhumba ukuba sigcine umswakama futhi sikhuthaze ukuvuselelwa kwayo, okubuye kube nomphumela onenzuzo mayelana nokulwa nezimpawu ze-photoaging.

Yiqiniso, akukho Retinol nanoma iyiphi enye into ezokwenza bushelelezi ukugoqa okujulile kanye nemibimbi evelele - kulokhu, ezinye izindlela ze-cosmetology zingasiza.

Umphumela wokusebenzisa i-Retinol esikhumbeni sobuso

Izinhlobo ezahlukene zezimonyo ezine-vitamin A ekubunjweni zizonikeza imiphumela ehlukene. Ngakho-ke, ungalokothi ulindele imiphumela efanayo evela kukhilimu njenge-peel yamakhemikhali. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ikhambi ngalinye linemisebenzi yalo: ezinye zenzelwe ukukhulula ukuvuvukala, ezinye ukukhipha nokuvuselela isikhumba, kanti ezinye ukwandisa ukunwebeka kanye nethoni enempilo yobuso. Kubalulekile futhi ukucabangela ezinye izithako ku-cosmetics ethile nge-Retinol.

Ngakho-ke, khetha njalo imikhiqizo ngokuhambisana nohlobo lwesikhumba sakho, nezidingo zaso, futhi wenze ngokuqinile ngokuvumelana nemiyalelo. Khumbula: okuningi akulungile.

Ngokusetshenziswa kahle kwemikhiqizo ene-Retinol, uzothola isikhumba esinwebekayo nesibushelelezi ngethoni elinganayo, ngaphandle kwama-acne nemibimbi. Kodwa ukweqisa kwe-Retinol kuzoba nomphumela ophambene: ukucasuka, ukwanda kwe-photosensitivity, ngisho nokushiswa kwamakhemikhali.

Ukubuyekezwa kwe-cosmetologists mayelana ne-Retinol

Ngokwengxenye enkulu, ochwepheshe bakhuluma kahle mayelana namalungiselelo ane-vitamin A ekubunjweni. Izazi ze-cosmetologists ziyayithanda ngenxa yomphumela wayo wokulwa nobudala, ukuze kujwayelekile izindlala ze-sebaceous, kanye nokwanda kokunwebeka kwesikhumba.

Nokho, ochwepheshe baxwayisa ngokuthi ukusebenzisa ngokweqile kungaba yingozi. Abaningi be-cosmetologists abancomi ukusetshenziswa kwezimonyo nge-Retinol ehlobo, kanye nabesifazane abakhulelwe kanye nabantu abanesikhumba esibucayi.

Kukholelwa ukuthi izimonyo ze-Retinol, ezithengiswa emakhemisi nasezitolo, ziqukethe ukuhlushwa okuphansi kwento, okusho ukuthi akunakwenzeka ukuthola ukucasuka okukhulu kwesikhumba. Ngasikhathi sinye, umphumela ngeke uphawuleke njengalapho usebenzisa imikhiqizo yochwepheshe ene-vitamin A ekubunjweni.

Ngokuvamile, uma udinga umphumela oqinisekisiwe onezingozi ezincane, kufanele uxhumane nochwepheshe. Okungenani ukuze uthole iseluleko.

Imibuzo nezimpendulo ezidumile

Namuhla, izimonyo zifana nemithi, ngisho negama laqanjwa - i-cosmeceuticals. Imikhiqizo eminingi ayinconyelwe ukusetshenziswa ekhaya ngoba idinga ukunemba nokunemba. Ngaphandle kolwazi olukhethekile, ungazilimaza.

Ngakho-ke, izimonyo ezine-Retinol, uma zisetshenziswe ngokweqile noma ngokungalungile, zingabangela ukucasuka, ukulunywa nokuvutha, ukusabela kokuvuvukala, nokungezwani komzimba. Ukuze uvimbele lokhu, udinga ukufunda "izingibe". Eyethu uchwepheshe Natalia Zhovtan izophendula imibuzo ethandwa kakhulu. Njengoba besho, ukuxwayiswa kuhlonywe ngaphambili.

Imithombo:

1. Samuylova LV, Puchkova TV Cosmetic chemistry. Uhlelo lokufundisa ngezingxenye ezi-2. 2005. M.: Isikole sosokhemisi bezimonyo. 336 p.
2. Bae-Hwan Kim. Ukuhlolwa Kokuphepha kanye Nemiphumela Yokulwa Nemibimbi Ye-Retinoids Esikhumbeni // Ucwaningo lwe-Toxicological. 2010. 26 (1). С. 61-66. I-URL: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834457/
3. DV Prokhorov, co-ababhali. Izindlela zesimanje zokwelapha eziyinkimbinkimbi kanye nokuvimbela izibazi zesikhumba // Crimean Therapeutic Journal. 2021. №1. amakhasi 26-31. I-URL: https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/sovremennye-metody-kompleksnogo-lecheniya-i-profilaktiki-rubtsov-kozhi/viewer
4. KI Grigoriev. Isifo sezinduna. Ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba kanye nezisekelo zokunakekelwa kwezempilo // Umhlengikazi. 2016. No. 8. amakhasi 3-9. I-URL: https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/ugrevaya-bolezn-uhod-za-kozhey-i-osnovy-meditsinskoy-pomoschi/viewer
5. DI. Yanchevskaya, NV Stepychev. Ukuhlolwa kokusebenza kwezimonyo ezinovithamini A // Isayensi emisha. 2021. No. 12-1. amakhasi 13-17. I-URL: https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/otsenka-effektivnosti-kosmeticheskih-sredstv-s-vitaminom-a/viewer