Uma i-shea, i-jojoba, i-avocado ne-soy iphupho lama-cosmetologists kanye nabalandeli bezemvelo bobuhle nempilo, kuyadingeka ukuthi uhambe ngensipho ngaphambi kokufika kule mikhiqizo enconywa kakhulu ngezinzuzo zabo. Inqubo yokwenza insipho ibizwa ngokuthi i-saponification. Imikhiqizo etholakala kuyo iyona engasebenziseki.

Leli gama livela kwisiLatini: ngasese, isapo ngensipho nama-abilis okwazi. Ngakho-ke kungumkhiqizo ongenakukwazi ukuguquka ube insipho. Ukuze uqonde ukungafakwa kwesixhaso, umuntu kufanele avele aqonde ukuthi yini i-saponification, okungukuthi, umlando wokwenza insipho.

Kuze kube yikhulu le-19 leminyaka, sasigeza, sahlukanisa futhi sakhipha umbala (ngokwesibonelo izinwele) ngensipho etholwe ngamafutha ezilwane (imvamisa ingulube) esasiphendula ngepotash (isisekelo esikhona emlotheni). Ngemuva kwalokho, sisebenzise amafutha emifino aphendulwa ngesoda (isisekelo esitholwe emanzini olwandle.

Ukuze uthole inzuzo engcono, imboni eshisayo yokwenziwa kwe-saponification iye yathatha indawo yesononification ebandayo, yezobuciko kepha ebuya ngoba igcina izimfanelo zamafutha (ezonakaliswe ukushisa).

Ukufingqa:

• Udaba olungafinyeleleki yingxenyana esalayo (ayincibiliki emanzini kodwa incibilika kumakhemikhali awuketshezi) etholwe ngemuva kokuncibilikiswa;
• Ku-equation eyodwa: uwoyela noma izinto ezinamafutha + i-soda = insipho + i-glycerin + ingxenyenamba engeyona ye-glyceridic engeyona isaponifiable;
• Ingxenyenamba engenakulinganiswa yamafutha yemifino ithola ukusetshenziswa ku-cosmetology yezakhiwo zayo zebhayoloji.

Ukuqonda intshisekelo yezinto ezingenakubekwa obala, kufanele sidlule ebhokisini: ukuguga kanye ne-oxidation yesikhumba. Umzimba ukhiqiza ama-radicals amahhala umsebenzi wawo ukuhlanza amangqamuzana esikhumba. Bayaziqeda. Kepha uma kwenzeka kukhiqizwa ngokweqile (ukungcola, ugwayi, i-UV, njll.), Ahlasela amaseli nokuqukethwe kwawo (i-elastin, i-collagen). Lokhu kubizwa ngokuthi "ukucindezeleka okwenziwe nge-oxidative" okubhekene nokuguga kwesikhumba. Futhi kulapho okungenakuqondeka kukhombisa khona izinzuzo zabo.

Uhlu lude. Njengoba sesizwile, ngamafutha emifino asetshenziswayo. Umkhiqizo ngamunye noma "osebenzayo" unezici zawo. Ziyingcebo yesikhumba.

• Ama-polyphenols anezakhiwo ezibaluleke kakhulu ze-antioxidant (phakathi kwazo, ama-tannins angama-antibacterial, ama-flavonoid aphikisana nokuvuvukala kanti ama-lignans angama-seboregulators);
• Ama-Phytosterol (i-cholesterol yemifino) ayaphilisa, ayalungisa futhi anezinto ezilwa nokuvuvukala. Bathuthukisa umsebenzi "wokuvimbela" wesikhumba kanye ne-microcirculation. Zinciphisa ukuguga kwesikhumba;
• AmaCarotenoid anika “ukubukeka okuhle.” Yibo abafaka umbala wamafutha. Ziyi-antioxidants yemvelo enamandla evuselela futhi ilungise isikhumba. Zikhuthaza ukuhlanganiswa kwe-collagen ne-photoprotectors.

Uhlu luqukethe namavithamini amaningi:

• Amavithamini B avikela futhi avuselele amaseli;
• Uvithamini C usheshisa ukwelashwa;
• I-Vitamin D ilawula futhi isize ukumuncwa kwe-calcium. Igcina i-hydration yesikhumba;
• U-Vitamin E uvikela ukuguga ngokusebenzisa isenzo sakhe sokulwa ne-antioxidant kanye ne-anti-toxic;
• Uvithamini K ukhawula ububomvu.

Kulolu hlu kunezelwa:

• Ama-enzyme: avikela ekugugeni;
• Ama-esters anenhlaka: ukuvikela nokwelashwa;
• Ama-squalenes: ama-antioxidants.

Iningi lamafutha namanye amafutha aqukethe okungu-2% noma ngaphansi kwendaba engaqondakali. Kepha ezinye ziqukethe okuningi:

• Ibhotela le-Shea liqukethe u-15%. I-Shea noma "isihlahla sebhotela" noma "igolide labesifazane" likhula eNtshonalanga Afrika. Ikhiqiza amantongomane ama-alimondi acindezelwe anika ibhotela. Le bhotela isetshenziselwa ukudonsa nokuthambisa isikhumba;
• I-Bexx kanye ne-oyela kaJojoba aqukethe ama-50%. IJojoba idabuka eningizimu ye-United States nasenyakatho neMexico, kepha manje sekutholakala amasimu emazweni amaningi. Yimbewu yayo (ebizwa ngokuthi ubhontshisi noma ama-alimondi) equkethe amafutha omlingo;
• Amafutha kakwatapheya nowabhontshisi ayaziwa kwezokwelapha ngezindawo zawo zokulwa nesifo samathambo: umuthi usetshenziswa kwi-rheumatology (i-osteoarthritis yamadolo nesinqe) naku-stomatology kepha i-SMR yabo (inzuzo yangempela) ithathwa njengenganele noma eyingozi. Lawa angama-ISAs: angenakuphikiswa wosoya nokwatapheya anemiphumela engathandeki kodwa engenabungozi ekusebenziseni kwawo ubuhle.
• Kumele kuqashelwe ukuthi insipho ye-surgras yizinsipho lapho kwethulwe khona izinto ezingenakuphikiswa ezincibilikiswe kumakhemikhali awuketshezi wemvelo.