Ukucwecwa kwamakhemikhali: kuyini, kungani kuyadingeka, izinhlobo, imiphumela ngaphambi nangemva [umbono wochwepheshe]

Liyini ikhasi lamakhemikhali ngokwe-cosmetology?

Ukucwecwa kwamakhemikhali kuwukukhipha okujulile kwe-stratum corneum ye-epidermis. Ngenkathi sisebancane, isikhumba sikhipha amangqamuzana "afile" ngokwawo, kodwa ngemva kweminyaka engu-25-30, izinqubo ze-keratinization zikhula kancane kancane. Khona-ke ama-asidi ayasiza. Ukucwecwa kusetshenziswa ku-cosmetology ngesinye isizathu - kunikeza umphumela omuhle njalo esikhumbeni sobuso esinezinkinga ezihlukahlukene zobuhle, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi umgodi ngemva kwenkukhu noma amachashazi amnyama - izimbotshana ezivalwe ngengxube ye-sebum namaseli esikhumba afile.

Ikhasi lekhemikhali elisuselwe kusigcobo esine-asidi ephezulu, elenziwa esaluni noma emtholampilo yi-beautician eqeqeshiwe, alihlukumezeki kakhulu kunokuhlanza ubuso okwenziwa ngomshini, futhi liyashesha kunemikhiqizo ene-asidi ehloselwe ukusetshenziswa ekhaya.

Yiziphi izinzuzo zesikhumba samakhemikhali esikhumbeni sobuso?

Abesifazane abahambisana nezitayela zesimanje (futhi ezisekelwe ngokwesayensi) ekuzinakekeleni, bhalisela amapeel amakhemikhali hhayi ngoba kuyimfashini, kodwa ngoba ukuxebuka kuhle kakhulu esikhumbeni sobuso. Yini ngempela?

  • Ukucwecwa kususa ukukhululeka okungalingani okubangelwa ukonakala kwe-keratinization yesikhumba.
  • Ikhanyisa noma isuse ngokuphelele i-pigmentation yanoma yiluphi uhlobo (solar, post-inflammatory, hormone).
  • Yehlisa izibazi zemvelaphi ehlukahlukene, okuhlanganisa i-post-acne.
  • Ihlanza ama-pores, okwenza isikhumba esinezimbotshana sibe bushelelezi futhi silungiswe kahle.
  • Ibuyisela i-pH yemvelo ye-epidermis.
  • Yehlisa ukujula nobude bemibimbi.
  • Ilungisa i-hyperkeratosis - ukuqina kwe-stratum corneum.
  • Ivuselela amaseli, ibuyisele isikhumba ekubukekeni okusha, nokuphumulile.

Ukwengeza, ekuphenduleni ukushiswa kwamakhemikhali okulawulwayo, okuyisikhumba samakhemikhali, isikhumba siqala ukuhlanganiswa nge-hyaluronic acid kanye nemicu ehlangene yezicubu ze-intercellular. Ngenxa yalokho, izinqubo zokuguga kanye ne-skin glycation ziyancipha.

Imuphi umphumela ongatholakala enkambweni yamakhasi amakhemikhali?

Into ebaluleke kakhulu, njengoba odokotela besikhumba besho, ukuthola i-asidi yakho. Ngokuvamile kufanele uhambe ngezinketho eziningana, ucabangela izici zomuntu ngamunye zesikhumba.

Ku-cosmetology, izinhlobo ezine zama-asidi asetshenziswa njengamanje: AHA (glycolic, mandelic, tartaric, lactic), BHA (salicylic, beta-hydroxypropionic), PHA (gluconolactone) kanye carboxylic (azelaic). Ake sigxile kulezo eziye zasakazwa kabanzi futhi zithandwa phakathi kwamakhasimende emitholampilo ye-aesthetic cosmetology:

  • Ukuhlanza nge-salicylic acid: isikhumba sisuswa ama-comedones nama-blackheads, ukukhiqizwa kwe-sebum yizindlala ze-sebaceous kujwayelekile, inkambo ye-acne ilula.
  • Ukucwecwa nge-AHA acids: isikhumba sithola ithoni elinganayo kanye nokukhululeka, ukuhlanganiswa okuvamile kwama-protein fibers abhekene nobusha besikhumba (collagen ne-elastin) kanye ne-hyaluronic acid kubuyiselwa.
  • Ukuhlanza nge-retinoic acid: imibimbi nama-folds abushelelezi, ukuthambekela kwe-epidermis ku-pigmentation kunciphisa, i-turgor yesikhumba iyathuthuka.

Izinhlobo zesikhumba samakhemikhali ebusweni

Ngaphezu kohlobo lwe-asidi, udokotela ukhetha ukujula kokuchayeka kokuxebuka, ecabangela isimo sesikhumba kanye nezinga laso lokusebenza kabusha.

Ukuxebuka okukha phezulu

I-AHA kanye ne-PHA acids ngokuvamile ihileleke ekucwecweni kwamakhemikhali esikhumbeni sobuso. Ifaneleka kokubili isikhumba esinamafutha nesomile.

Kuthinta kuphela i-stratum corneum ye-epidermis, ukuxebuka kubuyisela ukukhazimula esikhumbeni, kunciphisa umbala obala futhi kunciphisa ama-comedones. Ingasetshenziswa njengengxenye yenqubo yezimonyo eyinkimbinkimbi. Isibonelo, ngaphambi kokuba uchwepheshe avuselele noma alawule imaski yezindlala ze-sebaceous.

Ngemuva kokucwenga okukha phezulu, ngeke kudingeke ukuthi ushintshe izinhlelo zesonto, ngoba cishe azihambisani nokuxebuka okubonakalayo.

Ukucwecwa okuphakathi

Izinto ezisebenzayo ze-medium chemical peeling yesikhumba sobuso zingena kuzo zonke izingqimba ze-epidermis futhi zingafinyelela ku-dermis, ungqimba oluphakathi lwesikhumba.

Ukucwecwa kwalolu hlobo kusetshenziselwa ukwelapha ngokumelene ne-pigmentation ejulile, i-acne, i-post-acne kanye nezibonakaliso zokuguga: ama-pores akhulisiwe ngenxa yobuthakathaka be-turgor, imibimbi nama-creases. Kanye ne-laser resurfacing, ukuxebuka okumaphakathi kushelela izibazi ezivele ngenxa yokulimala noma ukuhlinzwa.

Ukucweba okujulile

Ukucwecwa kwamakhemikhali ajulile kungena ezingeni ledermis, lapho lenza khona umsebenzi walo wokulwa nokuguga. Ngokuphathelene nomphumela, kungafaniswa ne-facelift yokuhlinzwa, futhi ukucwenga kunokususa okukodwa kuphela - kulandelwa isikhathi eside sokubuyisela, ukwelula amasonto nezinyanga.

Sonke lesi sikhathi, isikhumba sizobukeka, ukusibeka ngobumnene, ukunganaki: ama-crusts acwebileyo awakwazi ukufihlwa ngesisekelo, futhi akunconywa ukuphoqa ukuxoshwa nge-scrubs yasekhaya. Emithi yesimanje yobuhle, ukuxebuka okujulile akuvamile ukusetshenziswa.

Ikhasi lamakhemikhali lenziwa kanjani i-cosmetologist

Ngokuvamile, inqubo iqukethe izinyathelo ezinhlanu.

  1. Ukuhlanza isikhumba se-sebum, imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kanye nezimonyo.
  2. Ukumboza isikhumba sobuso ngokubunjwa kwe-acidic. Odokotela bakhetha ukusebenzisa amapeel amakhemikhali ngebhulashi lefeni lokwenziwa noma i-cotton pad.
  3. Ukuchayeka kusuka emaminithini angu-10 kuya ehoreni. Ubude besikhathi buncike ohlotsheni lokucwecwa kanye nezinga lokuzwela kwesikhumba.
  4. Ukungathathi hlangothi kokwakheka kwamakhemikhali ngesisombululo se-alkali. Lesi sinyathelo sinokuzikhethela, senziwa kuphela ezimweni ezimbili: isikhumba siphendula ama-acids ngokucasuka noma inqubo isebenzisa ukwakheka nge-pH ephansi kakhulu.
  5. Ukugeza. Ngokungafani namakhambi asekhaya ane-acids, ukwakheka kochwepheshe kufanele kugezwe ngamanzi ekupheleni kwenqubo.

Ungase udinge imaski epholile ngemva kwenqubo. Futhi yebo, i-sunscreen. Manje isikhumba sibucayi kakhulu, udokotela kufanele aqinisekise ukuthi uvikelekile ezintweni ezibangela ukucasuka kanye ne-hyperpigmentation. Ukucwecwa kwamakhemikhali kungenziwa kokubili inkambo kanye nesikhathi esisodwa.

Izimpendulo zemibuzo evame ukubuzwa mayelana nokucwecwa

Ngemikhiqizo ekhiphayo yokunakekela isikhumba sasekhaya, kulula: gwema ukuzwela ngokweqile, ungawasebenzisi ngokweqile ama-serum ane-acidic, futhi khumbula ukusebenzisa i-sunscreen nsuku zonke. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, ukucwecwa kwamakhemikhali okuwuchwepheshe kuphakamisa imibuzo eminingi. Ochwepheshe be-Vichy baphendula okufanele kakhulu kubo.

Nini ukwenza ikhasi lamakhemikhali?

Ama-peels aphakathi nendawo ajulile akhulisa kakhulu ukuzwela kwesikhumba kuze kufike ku-photodermatitis. Ngenxa yalesi sizathu, zibanjwa kusukela ngo-Okthoba kuya ku-March, phakathi nezinyanga zokuthukuthela okuphansi.

Amapeel athambile angaphezulu angafakwa ohlelweni lwehlobo lwezinqubo zobuhle. Ama-acid e-PHA, kanye nama-alimondi nama-lactic acid, athambile kakhulu ngenkathi efudumele. Kodwa-ke, ukuvikelwa elangeni kubalulekile ngemva kokukhishwa kwamakhemikhali alula.

Ukuxebula kuvinjelwa kubani?

I-contraindication ingase ibe isikhumba esibucayi kakhulu, ukuqubuka okusebenzayo okuningi, izilonda ezingalapheki, ama-neoplasms angatholakali, i-rosacea eqhubekayo, ukungezwani komzimba ezingxenyeni ezixebukayo, ukuphefumula okunamandla kanye nezinye izifo ezingamahlalakhona.

Futhi, udokotela uzokunikeza enye indlela yokubhekana nokungapheleli kwesikhumba uma kwenzeka une-predisposition to keloidosis - ukubukeka kwezibazi ze-keloid. Kodwa lesi yisifo sesikhumba esingandile emazweni asenyakatho.

Kungenzeka yini ukufeza umphumela ofanayo ngokucwecwa ekhaya?

Imikhiqizo yesimanje yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba yasekhaya isebenza kancane, kodwa ikuvumela ukuthi ufinyelele umphumela wekhasi lamakhemikhali ochwepheshe. Lawa, okokuqala, okhilimu nama-serum anokuqukethwe okuphezulu kwe-AHA-, BHA-acids noma i-Retinol ehlanzekile.

Noma kunjalo, sivame ukweluleka ukuwahlanganisa nezinqubo ze-cosmetologist, ikakhulukazi uma sibhekene nesikhumba esivuthiwe, i-hyperpigmentation ejulile, i-post-acne eminingi, nezinye izimo.

shiya impendulo